After nearly a year of living in Madrid, I have eaten, walked, and explored my way around the city.

Upon moving to Madrid and trying to find new things to do, I was constantly running into the same 4 or 5 restaurants (yes, I’ve been to Ten con Ten) and was determined to create a more local experience.

This Madrid travel guide includes not only the places I’ve discovered, but the places my Spanish friends take me to. Ideal for expats, first-time visitors, and travelers seeking a new experience, here are my recommendations for your time in Madrid.

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Madrid Travel Guide: Best Neighborhoods to Explore (Like a Local)

There are so many different neighborhoods in Madrid — each unique and incredible in their own way. But if I had to prioritize the can’t miss spots, these are the neighborhoods I would suggest.

• Chueca/Malasaña — hipster vibes, vintage shops, great bars, and late-night energy. These neighborhoods are extremely LGBTQIA+ friendly and always a good time.
• Chamberí — quiet, elegant, great coffee and book stores, less touristy. Stop for a bite to eat in Plaza Olavide for people watching in the sun!
• La Latina — best for grabbing tapas with friends, bar hopping during the day, and if you’re in town on a Sunday, visiting El Rastro flea market (the city’s oldest outdoor market).
• Las Letras — artsy, great restaurants, and great local shopping. Don’t miss the restaurants and shops on Calle de las Huertas. Bonus tip — once a month they host a street market called Mercado Las Ranas full of artisanal products, boutique clothing, souvenirs and more. Check their website here to check when the next market is scheduled!

Where to Eat in Madrid (Beyond the Tourist Traps)

I have one rule for you in Madrid… do NOT eat anywhere that has photos of the food on the windows! I promise you, it will be more expensive for a lower quality. Instead, I’d recommend:

Tapas Bars and Traditional Spanish Food

• Taberna el Sur de Huertas — great Spanish-style tavern in Las Letras with a unique menu. They have all the must-try Spanish classics, but with more variety than a traditional tavern.
• El Bombín de Sabina — another very typical Spanish-style tavern in an old building, which is the birthplace of Spanish musician, Joaquin Sabina. I always order a vermouth and patatas bravas (watch out, they’re actually spicy).
• La Chispera — located in La Latina, this restaurant has the best tortilla española that I’ve ever tried. Made to order, you can decide how cooked or runny you want your tortilla, and whether you want it with or without onions or goat cheese. A very controversial choice in Spain!
• Casa Macareno — located in Malasaña, this restaurant is at the top of every local’s list. This classic Spanish taberna does all of the classics well. If you want an authentic spot to try all the best Spanish food, this is the most well-rounded and foolproof option! Unlike other Spanish tabernas, you will need a reservation to visit Casa Macareno.

OR… if it’s your first time in Madrid, I highly recommend taking a tapas tour through La Latina. They’ll take you to local spots you may not find otherwise!

Brunch & Coffee Shops

• Watts Cantina — they serve breakfast all day, and offer the best pancakes in the city. Personally, I always order the breakfast burrito, and it never disappoints!
• El Gordito — they have two locations in the city, and offer delicious coffee and pastries to go, in addition to their breakfast menu. I usually get their breakfast sandwich and an iced latte.
• Luso Coffee Shop — this is a tiny, unassuming spot right by metro Anton Martin which is great for a quick coffee and bite on the go while you explore the city.
• Slow Coffee — this is just outside of the touristy part of La Latina. It’s a very cute, vibey coffee shop that has amazing lattes and great toasts to start your day off right.
• Molino Manuela — a Mexican-style coffee and pastry shop in Chamberi that is to die for. You must try their horchata latte and a chocolate concha!

International Cuisine

• Mezcaloteca — this hole in the wall has the best flautas and guacamole I’ve ever tried. Located in La Latina, they offer a unique and creative cocktail menu and classic Mexican dishes.
• Tu Pasta — while the name doesn’t sound very exciting, the Italian food here is delicious. Located right by Retiro Park, this is a great spot for a glass of wine and pasta for dinner. The provolone al forno was a big hit at our table!
• Empanadish — this is a local chain and more casual, grab-and-go style, but they offer delicious Venezuelan empanadas that we get at least once a month. For the most authentic experience, order the tequeños and the empanada de venezolanísima.
• Persimmon’s — this Georgian restaurant is super unique, trendy, and has amazing food. I highly recommend ordering the Qababi and getting on of their chacha (persimmon liquor) cocktails.
• Krachai — this multiple Michelin star award winning Thai restaurant is surprisingly affordable (and delicious)! They offer all the thai classics like chicken satay, spring rolls, pad thai, and way more. It’s super authentic and great for a night out!
• Circolo Populare — not only is this place visually stunning, but the food is incredible. Recommended to us by an Italian friend, Circolo Populare is a very special and authentic Italian restaurant in Madrid, perfect for a date night. I highly recommend ordering their carbonara pasta that comes in a cheese rind!

Madrid Travel Guide: What Locals Actually Do

For Outdoor Lovers

• Retiro Park — iconic rowing boats, glass palace, and beautiful gardens. Check out Florida Park, which is a bar and restaurant in the middle of the park. Or, spot the peacocks in the Jardines de Cecilio Rodriguez, right inside Retiro!
• Casa de Campo — great hiking trails and cable car ride. If you’re traveling with children, they also have a zoo and amusement park, making for a great family-friendly day.
• Madrid Río — bike-friendly and scenic path along the Manzanares River. There are lots of great views and gardens along the way, and restaurants along the path where you can stop and grab a bite to eat.
• Vistillas — this is a small park overlooking the Almudena. I’d recommend grabbing a Mahou and some embutidos and watching the sunset from the park!

For Culture & Art

• El Prado — while touristy, this is still a must in my opinion! You can’t come to Madrid without seeing the incredible collection of art, including classics like Las Meninas.
• Take a cooking class — we did a cooking class at Cooking Clubhouse and had an absolute blast. It is a bit touristy, but it’s a great option for non-native Spanish speakers as they can speak either English or Spanish during class based on the group. You can choose between making traditional tapas from throughout Spain, or take a paella-making class. They always keep your glass full of cava, too!
• Catch a jazz or flamenco show — the best flamenco will be found in Andalucia, but if you’re only visiting Madrid, I’d recommend booking a show at La Cueva de Lola for a great, authentic flamenco show. If you’re looking for a different experience, Cafe Central is a beautiful old jazz club in Madrid that features rotating artists. Perfect for a date night!

For Everyday Fun

• Mercado de San Fernando — this is a great, non-touristy market in Lavapies that makes a great alternative to Mercado San Miguel. Our favorite stall in the market is La Tentacion Taqueria. The owner, Sandra, make you feel like a guest in her own kitchen while she makes the most delicious tacos!
• Go shopping — Madrid’s fashion and shopping scene is very underrated in my opinion! Hit the classic Spanish brands like Zara, Pull & Bear, Mango, Bershka and more, or discover local boutiques in Justicia or find a street market. Check out my full guide on shopping in Madrid to plan your shopping spree.
• Watch a futbol match at Newbridge Irish Pub — while you can catch the game at any Irish pub in the city, this one is our favorite. If you’re looking for good beer and bar food, they have the best chicken tenders I’ve tried in Madrid.
• Enjoy a slow afternoon on a terraza — my personal favorite activity. On a sunny day in Madrid, finding a spot on a terrace is a true sport. But with persistence and good luck, you’ll find a spot to sit and visit with family and friends, enjoying a glass of wine or vermouth and sharing tapas. One of my favorite terrazas is Terraza Collins in the La Latina/Palacio neighborhood, which has incredible vibes during the sunset.

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Honorable Mention

My Madrid Travel guide wouldn’t be complete without mentioning our favorite spot. I think we spend over 80% of our free time at our neighborhood bar — Céntrico. My husband hosts a trivia night on Thursdays, and the owners have become close friends of ours. Our go-to order is either a glass of albariño or a carajillo, and you MUST get one of their homemade chocolate chip cookies!

It’s also where we celebrate birthdays, including our dog Charlie’s.

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Tips for Experiencing Madrid Authentically

• Learn a few Spanish phrases — I find Madrid to be friendly to tourists, but it goes a long way when you make an attempt to speak the local language.
• Eat at the same time as locals — we eat lunch late, and dinner even later. Be mindful that most restaurants close for siesta between 2-5pm, so plan accordingly!
• Avoid tourist zones for meals — you’ll find lower prices and better quality if you avoid eating by key tourist attractions like Plaza Mayor or the Royal Palace.
• Slow down — take your time and enjoy the city. I’d recommend wandering the streets and stopping for long lunches and dinners rather than packing in a full agenda.

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Getting to Madrid

If you’re looking for affordable flights to Spain, I always recommend searching for flights on Kiwi. Not only do they have cheap travel routes, but they have incredible customer service. I know from my own experience dealing with extreme delays and cancellations, and they helped organize my hotel stay and voucher when I got stuck. I can’t recommend them enough!

If Madrid is your first stop on a longer Spanish adventure, the best way to get around is by train (long distances) or bus (short distances). Check out Renfe or Omio for the best (and quickest) routes!

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Madrid Travel Guide: Final Thoughts

Living in Madrid has forced me to slow down and enjoy a different lifestyle. The Spanish lifestyle is very much focused on good food, community, third spaces (like parks and plazas), and a glass of vermouth. Whether you’re moving abroad or just visiting, I invite you to take part in this experience with me!

While other European capitals invite packed agendas and fast itineraries, the best way to experience Madrid is relaxed, with no strict agenda, just discovering what the city has to offer. And ideally, with a vermouth on a sunny terrace.

Interested in making a permanent move to Spain? Check out my recent blog about my step-by-step guide to moving abroad, or learn more about why I personally decided to take the leap.

Have you visited Madrid? Leave your questions, thoughts, or Madrid favorites in the comments!

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Download my 3-days in Madrid travel itinerary for more local recommendations!

Includes:

• Flexible daily itinerary for a 3-day trip to Madrid with suggested activities.
• Local recommendations on restaurants, cafes, hotels, nightclubs, attractions, and more!
• Downloadable map with walking directions to each mentioned location.
• Neighborhood guides.
• Foods and drinks to try, and local sites you won’t want to miss.

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